File #16258: "Travel Diary of Jennie Fleming Europe 1903.pdf"

Text

Diary Of Jennie Fleming: Trip to Europe
with Roy Fleming 1903
LEGEND:
[correct name or word will be inside square brackets ]
< heading or explanation added for clarity>
XXXX – indecipherable words – probably written while riding over rough roads.
(?) best guess at word
? used as part of a word – can’t make out that letter (or letters)
Note: Corrected some singular / plural matches, added punctuation, and line breaks.
_____________________________________________________________________________________
June 19th 1903

Accounts
Tickets for Liverpool $4250
Roy ticket for Liverpool $42.50
Ticket for Montreal for Roy $5.65
Ticket for ? Montreal $12.15
…. $102.50
June 20th
Received from Charles Fleming the sum of $135 for Roy Fleming.
June 23rd
I bought fifteen American Express Cheques $20 each $300.xx
Expenses of cheques $2.00
I bought 25 American gold
207.06 British gold --- 232.06
Silver

160
25
British silver 5.62
1

Payments:
Tickets

102.80

Luncheon. 25 Roy +. 50

.75

In Toronto and on way to Montreal
Ribbon and portage in Toronto
2 camp stools

.60
.42
.80

Change at the Fort Quebec

.25

For Collection and waiting for apples and a few ?

.25
.25

Stuartess Skomer “Tunisian”
Strawberries
At Bunes Home
At Gali

1.00
.15
.12
.04

Express at National Bus
Mail + portages

.44

Strawberries in Ireland 24, collections 2

.26

Views of Loch Kahn

.25

Post card views

.05

Cards

.05

Lemons

.12

Buns 6, bread 3 1/2

.20

Oranges and apricots

.34

July 16 – pd on return tickets

20.00

July 18 gave Roy $25
Carried fwd ?
July 21 – gave Roy $100 express cheques and 20 s…
100 in gold for to purchase tickets to Rome
Pd for my washing

.50

Paper + ???

.08

Taking valises at Dumfrenden (?) from one station
to other

.25

Strawberries 10 Rashes 12

.25

Gave Roy $20. Also $10
July 28 bought silk ? for gals
Neckties

4.00
.90
2

Gave Roy $20 American cheque
Pd on Hock farm

.25
5.40

Card fund

2.42
7.82
.25
8.07
Several numbers listed “payments of both of us” –
totaling 4.75

Expenses of Ex Cheques

2.00

Tickets
- less

109.55
.25
109.30

Tallied up money:
I had of money
pd for myself

$ 644.33
7.82
$ 636.51

I have in money and cheques
$1 silver
10.72 gold
60 cheques
71.72

- $96.72
$ 539.79

$ 539.79 to be accounted for
100
Roy brought
$639.79
Pd on return tickets

$ 19.40

3

People and addresses
Dr Roberts – Jessee Patterson Roberts1
Stevenston, Ayrshire, Scotland
Miss Edith Grieve
No 1 Sylvian Place, Edinburgh
Mrs Marshall
38 Kenmure St, Glasgow
Miss Lizzie Johnston
St Peters Lodge
116 St Julians Faroe Road, West Norwood, S.E. London
-John Stewart
Plumber and gas fitter
56 Douglas St, House 58 Douglas St
John D Stewart
Mason and Builder
37 West Cumberland St, House 41
John Stewart and Co2
Iron and Coal Masters
30 Oswald St
James Stewart
Plumber and Gasfitter
19 Garscube Lane (?). 3 House 30 Grove St.
Charles Stewart
WAWDHouse 3 Abercromby Terrace, Paisly Road West

Names written out clearly by more than one hand – maybe Jennie and Roy or someone else.
Listed in The Commercial directory of Liverpool and shipping guide
https://books.google.com/books?id=JvMNAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA460&lpg=PA460&dq=john+stewart+coal+masters+os
wald&source=bl&ots=y28KrmdxeT&sig=wl5Ef4tFeKUQTrA3SR_zSCe7toI&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjU_rXiqszYAh
VE92MKHaERCHcQ6AEIKzAB#v=onepage&q=john%20stewart%20coal%20masters%20oswald&f=false. Google
Books.
3 Might be Glasgow.
1
2

4

Charles Stewart
Teacher of singing
150 Woodlands PC (?)
-Annie Whone4
193 Waverley Place, New York City5
English – Rose Cottage, Knightley Road, Bingley, York ENg6
Minnie Fleming7
18 Blesher St, Toronto

Friend – maybe Roy?
House in Manhattan built in 1899. Listing.
6 Accommodation?
7 But she was living in Owen Sound in 1903.
4
5

5

Notes on Mexico8
Area 767.005 square miles. Is a republic.
Is composed of twenty seven states, one territory, and one Federal District which comprises Mexico
City, the capital of the Republic. Lower California is the one Territory spoken of – the population is
composed of 20% pure whites, 43% of mixed races, and the remainder pure Indians. The Spanish
language is generally spread over Mexico. Roman Catholicism the state religion of Mexico til 1857 and
now all religions are tolerated and no religious body can own landed property.
Primary education is compulsory. The present form of government is that of a federal republic. Each
member of which manages its own internal concerns – railway, telegraph, and telephone,
Communication.
Enjoys a great diversity of climate.
The warm climate has the heat of the Torrid Zone and prevails on the sea coast. Along the Gulf of
Mexico and Pacific Ocean, the night breezes refresh the temperatures in the evening and make it
bearable in the day time.
This region is also refreshed in summery by the rains which are abundant and fall regularly during the
season. The rains fall regularly and at fixed intervals that is about from one to three hours every day,
and after the rain is over the atmosphere is clear and pleasant. – The rains have so decided an influence
on the atmosphere that in most of the country the seasons are divided into wet and dry seasons that
you realize what “fall and spring” mean, as the climate is so even the trees do not lose their leaves at
any given time but one by one drop off as they grow old and die and are replaced by new ones. The
trees losing their leaves in autumn and regaining them in spring is quite unknown in Mexico.

Jennie had already used this journal for information about Mexico. Perhaps this was research for an intended
trip, or notes from an actual trip. Rather than tear out the pages, she left blank ones before starting Trip to British
Isles.
8

6

Trip to British Isles and the Continent June 25 th 1903
Left Owen Sound by morning train arrived at Toronto 12 noon stayed with Mrs. Malcolm 620 Church till (?) 9 am, when I took express to Montreal, Roy joining me at Kingston.
Attended a concert at Toronto which was nice. Mr Ruthven McDonald9 was one of the features. One of
his numbers? was “ My ain fireside”10 which he sang with exceeding sweetness.
We sailed aboard the Tunisian of the Allan line. As we neared Montreal we came onto an area of trains
which passed (?) as we began getting aboard – at 3 am we sailed.
The St Lawrence is a beautiful river but not so clear as I had expected. Nevertheless it is beautiful,
dotted as it is on either side with pretty homes and beautiful foliage. Three Rivers was the first town of
any note that we passed and as we neared Quebec the banks are steep and sand and clay appears -.
Little towns dot the shore at short intervals which with our glass looks like farming land . A number of
sail boats and small steamboats dot the river. It is a very enjoyable scene as we sit here and look out.
The bugle now calls us to our mid-day repast – so good by scenery til after dinner.
At noon our boat pulled up at Quebec where we viewed the pathway of Wolfe as he climbed up to the
Plains of Abraham, when he and Montcalm both fell.
In a beautiful little park a Garden stands. The monument to their honor erected in 1823, also in front of
the Hotel Frontenac stands a massive monument of the honor of Champlain who founded Quebec in the
year of 1608.
We visited the Fort and great fortifications which stands on a high rock overlooking the St Lawrence – a
height of at least 300 – with the Plains of Abraham stretching to the right and a left, although the real
portion where Wolfe and Montcalm fell is about a mile and a half to the right - , a soldier showed us all
through the fort, and the guns, - one gun stands in the midst of the ground that was captured by the
British at the Battle of Bunker Hill. We next visited the Parliament Building which stands also on the high
ground, north of the Fort. The grounds and approaches are beautiful solid stone, with beautiful arches
and gateway of handsome cut stone. There is an air of elegance and solidity and substantiality about
everything in connection with the parliament building and fortifications.
In front of the Parliament Buildings is a fountain and beautiful grounds. It was now nearly 6 o’clock, so
we went our way toward our boat as supper would soon be served . As night closed in on us we went
out to say good by to the great rocky cliffs and the fort – soon to be out of sight but never to be
forgotten.
The St Lawrence is one mile wide at Quebec.

9

Canadian baritone. Jennie spelled it Ruthen. Performed in Chautauqua →
Best guess – was a Scottish song.

10

7

Sunday morning found us still sailing on down the St Lawrence. The scenes along the shores varying
lighthouses but not very high banks. They sloop [slope] not perpendicular by any means. Mostly covered
with foliage. Here or there or a few hamlets where life subsists but now as we near Rimouski the land
along the shore seems uninhabitable and the river is broading [broadening] and has taken on the deep
green of the ocean and the sky has the appearance you see at sea – no one has been sea sick so far- has
been cool beautiful sailing with little more than a ripple . We are engorging and have good appetites. Eat
three square meals a day – before we were scarcely over with our noon meal the tender with the mail
from Rimouski reached our Boat with the Canadian mails for England and the continent. There were
100 or over of parcel post and cases and about a hundred bags of mail which was taken on board. – It
seemed to be from old fashioned cases like the old fashioned willow baskets that came from Scotland.
These had Casters and they were wheeled along up on our Boat. Rimouski is only a small place but the
intercontinental railway goes through … the mail comes on here . In winter season it is at Halifax it is
taken on.
We are travelling at a rate of 12 or 13 miles an hour. Soon parts of the banks of the St Lawrence is from
500 to 1000 feet high.
There was service in the Saloon dining hall at 10 am. A creepy man with gown presided but good
number took part in the service. Just now a service is going on the Steerage part of the boat . Our tables
are decorated with Roses, Carnations and Palms
There are 57 of the Dr Withrow party on board who are going part to Scotland and France, the balance
to Rome and Naples.

Monday 29th [Birthday]
This is my birthday. Born June 29 1843 – would be 60 years today. We are sailing down the Gulf of St
Lawrence. Land is entirely out of sight; although but one side has the appearance of the ocean. It is
beautifully smooth. Everyone is busy taking notes. I see one or two a little sick. I hope and pray to get
across without sea sickness. We past Anticosti Island … every while at service today we will pass the
Magdalene Island, Cape North, and maybe Glace Bay on Cape Breton Island where the Marconi
Telegraph Station is being erected . Our Route is between Cape Ray on Newfoundland and Cape North
on Cape Breton Island
Yesterday there was Divine Service three times, morning in Saloon Dining Room afternoon steerage
department and evening second cabin. We had lovely music from four gentlemen from Chicago who
were on their way to some Christian Convention. The gentleman who spoke was Mr Clenor (?) of the
Sherbourne St Methodist Church Toronto.
It is cold now that I will hurry to go down stairs and get another coat although I have my raincoat and
my fur on and my shawl around my legs.

8

Saint Ann’s is a church 21 miles below Quebec where hundreds upon hundreds go yearly on pilgrimages
to be healed of their diseases. We saw the spire from the Fort at Quebec. In looking through glass you
see a long line of houses, miles long and begin to enquire why so long a line that ordinary places have
the breadth as well as the length but it leads to Saint Ann’s. In this church dedicated to Saint Ann who is
the patron saint of the sick is a shrine and piles of crutches and other articles belonging to sick people
which has been discarded by them when healed. In the year 1898 the large number of 125,0000 made
the pilgrimage. The church was originally built c 1650. The bones of Saint Ann are in a glass case. The
crutches and invalid chairs are piled to the ceiling. There is also a neighboring well of Water which is also
healed .
2 pm – we are out of the Gulph [Gulf] and into the broad ocean. It is smooth as glass. In the distance a
schooner full rigged with sails and ?. It is like a painted ship not a particle of land in sight. Soon we are
enveloped in mist which usually lasts for 22 hours. The fog whistle is blowing about every minute so that
no other boat strikes into us.
9 pm. It is beginning to be a little rough and my head a little shakey but still hope to get through. We
made 356 knots in the last 24 hours. A knot is a mile and an eighth which would make 411 miles. Total
distance to cover is 2692 from Rimouski.
A matter that I have not jotted down is that in the spot where Wolfe fell there is a monument erected
and a new ??? covers part of the old Battle ground. There is a Catholic Church that we missed seeing
which has the finest art gallery in Dominion (?) , it has one picture from Vandick.
St Mathew’s [Matthews] Cemetery hold a brother of Sir Walter Scott’s.11
The first vessel12 that crossed the Atlantic with steam was built at Quebec.
The Laurentide or Laurentian Mountains back of Quebec are 2695 feet high.
A Methodist Minister from Chicago told us a great deal about the land of Walter Scott which we hope to
visit: Rev W Libberton D.D. Pastor of Joyce ME Church Chicago.13 His talk was perfectly entertaining.
The Island of Orleans near Quebec on which Wolfe camped is about 20 miles long.

Tuesday Morning
Not well enough to get up til 10 o’clock. Ate no breakfast or dinner but had some supper but not feeling
at all well. They saw a whale this morning and a Boat and in the afternoon we had a fine view of two
large icebergs. The glass brought them very near to us. They were in sight for several hours. We had
much fog and a great deal of cold. We sighted Cape Race. It is on the Newfoundland Coast.
It has been fearfully cold all day, it is still cold but 2 am has commenced falling. I met Senator Read’s 14
daughter and chatted with her quite a length of time.
St. Matthews Cemetery The burial place of Thomas Scott brother of Sir Walter Scott.
Would have been SS Royal William – 1831 – but disputed - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Royal_William.
13 Mentioned in the Northwestern Christian Advocate 1904.
11
12

9

Thursday
Yesterday and today in bed. Could not hold my head up. I got up for an hour to go to a concert in the
Saloon or first Cabin but had to come away when it was half done and got to bed again. There were
about 10 whales seen at a little distance but not so near that a good view was to be had – also more
icebergs – one of the nights we were passing through so many that the captain had to stop up twice or
oftener. It has been exceedingly cold so much so that we had to wear heavier clothes than on a bitter
day in winter at home. – They come in on desk with hands blue with cold. – we are now 1600 miles from
Rimouski.

Sunday July 5th
Yesterday was a day for American flags and an American concert. The sea grew very rough toward
evening and during the night it ran real high. I went out on deck for a few minutes to see its grandeur.
The rest of the time I was in bed. Today Sunday there was a great swell on the sea but now so rough.
There was communion service at 7 am. Many went and said it was just lovely. Next in order at 10:30 was
the exhibition of wireless telegraphy to the Marconi station on the Irish Coast. Now we have been one
fifty five miles in touch with the Irish Coast by the wireless telegraphy. The air has been something like
the land air all day, we have been at a distance of about 80 miles. It is very much warmer. They sighted
land at noon, but we are still 70 miles from Moville. I saw a sea gull this morning, the first since leaving
the St Lawrence.
Flying fish15 are just now to be seen. They are a yard or more long.

Sunday Evening
At last we sighted land; Moville was near, first one, and then another island. Then the one on which the
Marconi station was stationed. Then Toric (?) Island16 on which is a very pretty lighthouse and then
comes Donegal with a rocky coast. Then the beautiful green side hill, such greens as no land but Ireland
and Scotland can produce. It was like an Oasis in the desert – we had been so wearied (?) of the
boundless seas – arriving near Moville a pilot in small boat pulled up to us and got aboard. Soon we half
(?) up and a Tender comes to meet us and bring and take the mail and fifty of our passengers said good
by and went a board.
There was a severe gale blowing when the embarked but we were all out looking on, waving
handkerchiefs and singing “We’re all jolly good-fellas”. There were sight and sounds not soon to be
forgotten. Our great ship now turned around. Passes down through Loch Foil, 17 the Irish Sea and to the
mount of the Mersey to Liverpool, but the tide was out and we could not land and had to anchor and
wait for Tenders to get ashore.
Probably Robert Read -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Read 1871-1896 Had distant connection with
Flemings in Hastings County.
14

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atlantic_flyingfish.
Might be Tory Island (had a lighthouse).
17 Probably Lough Foyle – estuary of the River Foyle, North coast of Ireland – would be between Donegal and
Liverpool.
15
16

10

Two Tenders came but their capacity was not large enough for comfort – but we had to pack in with
hardly standing room – on arrival the next trouble was the baggage passing the Customs, that done we
at once went to the art gallery and St George’s Hall, the Lime Street Station and men took our tickets for
Dumfries where we recheck (?) before dark—
Liverpool - Places visited St Georges hall. This is a free Art Gallery. Mikle Anglo and Raphael great works
of Art stand at the entrance. This Milkle Angelo 18 was the designer of St Peter’s Church at Rome – on the
way between Carlisle and Dumfries we saw Gretna Green.19 Small village which houses one Kirk in which
all the mischief was done. Runaway marriages of all classes of men and women. Reached Dumfries and
put up at Hotel – walked and in evening to see [Robert] Burns old home which was kept by his grand
daughter. Saw Mary Soumans (?)20 – then went to the Globe Inn where he used to drink – Roy and
James went in and sat on his chair. Dumfries is a beautiful Clean City – streets so pretty and Clean and
situated on the Nigh River
Tuesday we hired a rig and drove out in the Country. Saw the House that Jennie Dean was born in (Elen
Walker21 – one of the Scotts Characters. Drove on to the Iron Gray Cemetery where Jennie Dean is
buried, her grave is surrounded by an iron railing and netting. Flat marble slab inside erected by Sir
Walter Scott. Then went in to the Kirk. Sat in the seat where Robert Burns used to sit in. As we went to
this place we passed Loch Dal Swenton, away up the hills. This is where the first steamboat was floated.
A little past the above kirk Roy showed us where Lincluden abbey22 was – we still drove on and around
the Cluden River and Bridge which was beautiful. Then drove on to Kirkton, stopped at the Robertsons
Aunt Margarets house – saw Kirk Maho23 where she used to go to church and the graves of the
Robertsons.
On our way to Ayr passed through Mauchline - went out to see the farm and monument 24 on a corner
of Farms (?)

Ayr – Wednesday
Here we are in the land of Burns again. A beautiful monument stands to his honor on one of the central
squares, erected in year 1823. It is handsome with scenes of his poems on each side in bold relief. The

Michelangelo.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gretna_Green - Robert Burns was born here.
20 Perhaps connected to Burns.
21 Helen Walker, model for Walter Scott’s Jeannie Deans – buried in Irongray , cemetery a few miles from
Dumfries. Book – Heart of Midlothian.
18
19

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lincluden_Collegiate_Church
Kirkmaho – rectory - or Kirknahoe
24 Probably Robert Burns monument east of Ayr.
22
23

11

scene of his grey mare Meg and the witches [Tam O’Shanter] and Cotters Saturday Night 25 parting of
Burns and Hiland Mary26 and Jolly Beggar.27
The beds of flowers, one bordered with pansies, is one of the prettiest I ever saw.
Saw Robt Bruce castle? on the Carrick shire. 28 Saw also the Soldiers Encampment.
Also the Burns Monument 90 feet high with nine Corinthian columns.
New hotel and summer cottages going up on the Banks of the Doon between the old and new Bridge.
The sight is enthusing (?). It is said that 150,000 people were here to welcome Burns’ two sons here on
their return, a welcome from Ayrshire. The monument (?) has a dome with own (?).29 Now we enter
the monument30 which is handsomely decorated within it. Wall hung with pictures of the scenes of his
poems such as Cotters Saturday Night and Tam O Shanter riding on his grey mare Maggie and Mary ..
with his own Picture and brush – as the central figure.
In the show case is a pair of Bibles that R Burns presented to his Hiland Mary. Also a lock of his hair that
he presented to Mary also – also his wife Jean Armour’s wedding ring.
Another nice building has the statue of Tom O’Shanter and Souter Johnnie with their drinking cups and
mug. They look jolly.
Next we went down to the old Brig o’ Doon and I went down the Bank and bathed my face and hands in
its beautiful waters and also drank of its water.
As we stood on the old Brig we could see the Alloway Mill and the Old School house where Burns went
to go to school.
As we walk off from the Brig o’Doon an old gentleman leaning on his cane played us “Scots W Ha” 31
and Ye Banks and Braes o’ Bonnie Doon 32
Then we entered the Alloway Kirk yard – here I sat on the tombstone33 of Robert Burns’ father who was
buried year 1784. The old kirk is still standing although dilapidated with the old bell still in place and the
window through which Burns’ son Tam o’Shanter and the witches Dance (?) of Old Kirk 1135 (?) of
Alaway.

25
26

http://www.robertburns.org/works/82.shtml.
https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poems/43807/highland-mary.

http://www.robertburns.org/works/79.shtml.
Robert Bruce was born Turnberry Castle, Ayrshire.. He was the Earl of Carrick.
29 Circular dome is surmounted by a “ tripod and other ornaments.”
30 https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/alloway/burnsmonument/index.html.
31 Scots Wha Hae – patriotic song – lyrics by Burns.
32 http://www.bonnydoon.got.net/rburns.html.
33 https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/alloway/auldkirk/index.html.
27
28

12

We picked some gowans from Alloway Kirk Yard and some Ivy from the top of the building. Roy climbed
up on top and got the Ivy.
Now we enter the cottage in which he was born which was year 1754. Died 1796.
There is a museum with relicts (?) souvenirs etc also in connection with cottage
Staid at the Ayr Arms Hotel for two nights and one day and breakfast next day. The bill for it was $ 2 ‘ 4’
9.34
Now good by Ayr and Land of Burns for a little time til we take in Belfast Ireland. There was an
excursion to Belfast Ireland for July 9th and we took it on ticket from Ayr by Ardrossan 35 to Belfast with
stop over for 2 hours and return for $2.50 each.

To Ireland – July 9
We are now fast sailing on the steamer “Adder”36 the Island of Arran with its happy homes and green
fields are quite visible with the naked eye but much more so with the field glass. Now the LighthousePladda Light37 appears which is beautiful as it stands out on the hill. Next to our view is the Mull of
Cantre. As we near the further end of the Mull and on the opposite side about half way between Ireland
and Scotland looms up the Isle of Alisa Craig,38 a high rocky cliff. The industry here is quarrying. One
hundred people live there on the east side devoted to this industry. It is building stone but of what kind
is not known to our party.
Another horn brought us into sight of Ireland. The hills rise to quite a height on either side of the
Channel but there are many homes down at the foot on seashore as on the side hills which are
beautifully cultivated. The green of the cultivated fields is something most beautiful never to be seen in
our Country and never to be seen by me again. A Land I shall visit no more.
The Channel is a Loch called Loch Belfast – now we reach the docks and disembark. There were
numerous rigs of all kinds in waiting to convey the visitors. We chose the Jaunting Car 39 which we
enjoyed very much.
We drove through the city and into the grounds of Queens College which is quite large. Roy and Minnie
alighted and spent a few minutes in the building which they enjoy much, then we drove to the
Methodist Collage which is a fine large building with beautiful grounds but we had not time to enter.
Next we drove to the Park, which is a mile long, is prettily set, and with flower beds and shrubs – the
leaves of which is so thick and nice. Then we drove through some more of the city and on to the warf
Probably £ rather than $.
Town on North Ayrshire coast.
36 http://www.clydeships.co.uk/view.php?ref=6330 - Scottish steamer.
34
35

Isle of Pladda – one of three lighthouses on Arran – in the south.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ailsa_Craig -- small island in the outer Firth of Clyde - blue hone granite quarried
to make curling stones.
39 2 wheeled carriage drawn by single horse -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaunting_car.
37
38

13

[sic] and boat. Now we are fast sailing and the land receding. We meet many yachts and steamboats –
passed many light houses etc.

Stevenston
We reach Ardrossan near dusk. A telegram was in waiting which was handed to me as I passed out of
the Boat from Mrs Dr Roberts. We put up at the Hotel (Ardossan I think) for the night and went out to
Stevenston a distance of 6 or 8 miles the following morning. We found Mrs and Dr Roberts fine –
meeting him on his wheel as we made our way from the depot. Is quite a clever looking man - Jessie
Paterson looks nice and is quite mistress of the situation. We had a very enjoyable dinner and two hour
visit then made our train for Tully Tudilum Castle.40
Stevenston41 is a town of from six to eight thousand inhabitants. The industries are coal mining and
dynamite. The greatest dynamite factory in the world is here. We saw it from the boat (?) window.

Craignethan to Dumbarton etc
Tully Tudilum, also called Craignethan castle, between the Highlands and Lowlands. The scene of Old
Mortality42 is ?? here.?. It was besieged by the Covenanters and taken. The garrison was stormed – saw
the slaughter house where the killed (?) in Beef; the underground cells and the window where Jenny
Denison through the barking ??? on Cuddie Headrigg … The room where Mary Queen of Scots was kept
on the Nethan River.
Leaving Glasgow via Caledonian RR ,we reach Dumbarton where the old defenses of the Slitt (?) are in
evidence … the present defences are at Fort Matilda near or below Greenock. The great rock which
forms the National defence and some of the old castle still stands.
Next we reach Balloch near the entrance to Loch Loman. Now the pretty Loch bursts upon our sight. No
wonder it inspired and enthused Walter Scott as it is surrounded with hills on all sides and he shore
dotted with some houses and ?? as now is pointed out to us. The island Cailloch43 where the clan
McGregors are buried. There ae twenty islands in the little loch dotted around the prettiest on earth.
Bloody fights were fought back of the McGregor hills, not any lake in Europe holds a candle to this one.
It is heaven on earth. We thought we would be ?? here and not need to go to heaven (?) Inch Lunoch.
Covered with old yew trees (about 700 hundred years old) which were planted for the purpose of bows
and arrows. It has dear and some twenty six islands.

Meant Tillietudlem, a fictional castle in a Scott novel inspired by Craignethan Castle in South Lanarkshire,
Scotland and within a train ride of Ardossan.
41 North Ayrshire.
42 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Mortality.
43 McGregors are buried in Inchcailloch.
40

14

Rowor German a little summer resort now is reached on the main land. The name on the sign board is
Luss. All the land belongs to the Land of Luss. 44 Now we meet the beautiful companion Boat Princess
May with its flying flags filling the occasion. It is the Prince George that we are sailing.
Ciar Mhor forefather of Rob Roy lived here. He killed in the pass all the youth left in his charge of the
work they were the youth of the Colquhoun family.
We now reach Carby another summer resort. The banks a great part of the way is over 1000 feet high
when ? reach the point called Ben Lomond 3000 or over. The residence of Rowardennan is the place to
get off and ride ponies up the Ben Lomond as near the summer resort the Loch goes so narrow that we
thought it was coming to an end. Lock is 26 miles long.
As we near Tarbet, 45 another summer resort, you would think the Loch was again coming to an end. The
shore along the Loch are the cleanest prettiest with pebble, stones, and a gravel and rock and the trees
rising above the villas – I never saw anything so pretty. The Hotels along here are more like Gentleman’s
fine residences. The pretty rock (?) that bound the shores is covered with trees (evergreen).
Now we near Inversaid46 – the end of the Loch. At the Hotel Inversnaid, also the Inversnaid Falls looms
up in the distance – now our boat pulls up and we go ashore where carriages were awaiting us. Large
carriages open, four horses to each, fifty of us alighted on the two carriages and drove through the
winding road leading to Loch Katrine a distance of 6 ½ miles.
Stronachlachar is the little port or summer hotel at the entrance to Loch Katrine. As we drove away up
the heights on banks of Loch Lomond the sight was past all pen description. When you have read all that
has been written and thought of all the pretty things that has been said and can be said by mortals. The
half has not been told. You must see it do know and enjoy it.. As we near Loch Katrine yon (?) lake (?) as
to look unknown
The ..acan Hills47 and Loch Askel.
Next greets you and then the pretty little summer home and the -- now we enter the loch by Boat “Sir
Walter Scott”. Glen Gyle [Glengyle], the Home of the McGregors48 soon looms up – 5 minutes is he time
we are supposed to take sailing the loch. Length of Loch Katrine 15 miles. The verdure and foliage is
most beautifully green, but not near the beauty of Loch Lomond, only a few trees and not half so tall
and few if any summer resorts – as we near the Trossachs it becomes more wooded on the side hills.
Ben Ledi is one of the mountains that rises so high Is 2875 feet high.

44
45

http://www.clancolquhoun.com/clan-history/17-the-history-of-the-colquhouns.
https://www.visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/tarbet-p235011

46

Small community on east side of Loch. The hotel is next to Arklet Falls. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inversnaid.

47

can’t identify .Written in large and ragged hand.
Holiday cottage -- https://www.visitscotland.com/info/accommodation/the-glengyle-macgregor-p884881.

48

15

Now we reach the end of the lakes and again take carriages again for Callander, a drive of 9 miles. This
drive is through what is called the Trossacks, the magnificent hotel of that name stands and in road
relief opposite the little lake Acrey [Achray].
As we leave Loch Katrine we drive up the great hills till we reach the height of land then there is a slo
dissent [sic] along the beautiful glen which stretches from the Trossachs Hotel to near Callander. As
soon as we get out of sight of Achray the pretty Loch Venachar rises to our view to the right while the
glen called Trossachs is to our left. On the hillside is lots of Bell Heather but we could not stop the rig (?)
to pull them.
The scene all along the drive way is past description, as we reach the end of Loch Venachar, Callender
appears. Many tourists (?) stop here as there is lots of fishery. We had dinner at the Eagle Temperance
Hotels 2 shilling each – after 4 o’clock we took the train for Dunkeld which we reached at ½ past seven.
Our friends were awaiting us.

Monday morning
We started for Logierait. Got a nice hack and Mrs. Smith came with us. We past the Duke of Athol main
entrance. Craig … [ might be Cairngorm is the first mountain - is a great height – rocky bluffs with trees
all up the mountain side. We passed along the mountain side with the Great Glen on the opposite side
of ? way. Now we go to Dowally , the Cemetery where Robertson are buried.
Wm Graham and some of the Beatons (?) are here.
We now come to the old potato mill where my father worked for seven years. This is Kolmarch. I
plucked some broom in blossom.
Now we cross the Tummel near the Junction and we go to see the Ferry of the Tay which is the old one
that was at the crossing of the Tummel.
Now we come to the Logierait Church and burying ground, as we enter the first monument or tablet is
to the memory of the McKenzies, father of our Honourable Alex McKenzie. Then we come to my grand
father Fleming’s grave and then to the Stuart graves, then to the Robertson, my Aunt Margaret’s
graves. She was married to a Robertson and is Mrs Smith’s father and mother – and my mother’s
sister.49
Now we sight the Pass of Killiecrankie. Where the battle was fought and bonny Dundee was killed.
We next visited my grandfather’s farm Kirrandrum and found the sight [sic] of my father’s house or the
remains of it. Roy photographed it. Now we next went to see the Baptist Church where my father went
to Chuch and found a son and grandson of the minister who preached when they were then still in the
place. We took some souvenirs from the old farm. One old ash tree still stands in the corner of my
grandfather’s garden, or at least what once was the gardens..

49

Explain?

16

Now Lake Craiglush (?) upon us. There is a large lime kiln here xxxx
A ride to Loch ??
We leave Dunkeld by the Butterstone Coach (?). Loch of Lowes stretches along by the way. Cardney Hil
and Cardney Loch – next a loch with white water. Now we come to Butterstone and Butterstone Burn.
Now comes the xxxx sheep farm on the xxx of Athol Estate.
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Loch Clunie is a pretty sheet of water with an old castle on an island in the center. We rowed across
Now we come to Clunie Church where my aunt Scott went to Church and is buried. It is a fine substantial
building.
We looked up every monument in the grave yard but could not find one dedication to her or her
husband James Scott – but we saw the Scott plot with their monuments to mark them.

July 17th
We rested as it rained all day and night and the previous day.

Friday morning July 18 – St Andrews
It was still raining a little but we felt we must go, so took train to St Andrews via Perth, Dundee, and the
Tay bridge. In Dundee we had an hour waste (?), so visited University College. The building did not make
any great appearance but no doubt the educational qualities were good.
Then on to St Andrews. Went to the Tay Bridge Station50 and down in. The Tay Bridge is about two miles
long – has about 80 piers. This is where the Railroad disaster about 24 years ago. It was on a Christmas
evening when there was as always is a great home coming near the train time there was a terrible
blizzard and gale that swept down or out the centre of the bridge and the train coming plunged down,
never to return. The passengers never to wake. We went on by the shore past many little towns and
stations, with Broughty ferry on the opposite shore.
On reaching St Andrews we started in the down pour of rain and walked to the old Cathedral 51 said to
have been built in the 12th century. The walls around the cathedral are like great fortifications, the
cathedral itself being the largest in Scotland. We could not imagine what such would be built for.
Thousands of graves and monuments and old stone slabs to mark the whereabouts of some departed
one lie here. The two ends of the cathedral are in fairly good preservation, but the rest has fallen.

50

First Tay Bridge -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tay_Rail_Bridge. Disaster was 28 Dec 1879.

Note had to cross the bridge to get to St Andrews to the south. Broughty Ferry is on the north shore – would have
been hard for the party to see it.
51 Built 1158 -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Andrews_Cathedral.

17

Next on to the fortifications which overlook the German ocean.52 The walls of this is at least fifteen feet
broad or thick. It is here that the little dungeon is – probably in the time of war such fortifications and
dungeons were needed but we thank the Lord for a time when they are of no use. Next we looked in at
one of the seats of learning but as our time was up we had to bid all the scenes good by and return to
our train to get home to Dunkeld before it would be too late.

Sunday morning
Went to Church with Mrs Smith and Andrew, and looked through the Cathedral.

Saturday Morning July 19
This day train to Loch Leven and street car from Perth to scene (?) on a corner of the Perth Park. Stood a
monument but no inscription or name. We enquired to whom it was dedicated. A man near by said Sir
Walter Scott. Everyone should know him, that is why no name.
Next place of importance in Perth is the fine large Long Post Office 53 building of beautiful polished stone.
Now we arrive at Loch Leven54 and hired a boat with two strong oarsmen to row us across to the old
castle[Lochleven] where Mary Queen of Scots lived for many years. The walls are from 5 to 10 feet thick
of solid mason work in a very good state of preservation although the roof has all fallen in long ago. The
fortifications cover about an acre. There is a nice park inside the walls with two Plain trees and Elm,
some of which might have been planted by Mary Queen of Scots herself. We spent a couple of hours
here. It was beautiful and warm inside the walls. The walls are about 24 feet at the highest point and
maybe 10 feet thick. Roy took a photo of this place. James and myself in it.
Loch Leven Castle situated on an island in the loch. There are other islands in the loch, one containing 80
acres. Other smaller ones –[Reed] Bower and Scart Islands.55
The paddoch Bower is where Mary land here – Mary lived here about a year.
Lomond hill and Bishop hill56 is in xxxx here – also a cemetery belonging to the Kinross Estates.

Sunday July 19th 1903
Mrs. Smith and Andrew went to Church with us this morning. After dinner we went to the Hermitage.
This is a nice cottage overlooking a very pretty waterfall. This is the river Braan.57 The waterfall and
scenery is one of the prettiest in Scotland. It has a bridge way, rustic summer housed, besides the
Former name for North Sea https://sco.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_Ocean.
Possibly Italianate – demolished Mentioned in https://books.google.com/books?id=Qnd4Ll4MAi4C&dq.
54 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loch_Leven_Castle.
55 There are more - see map http://www.snh.org.uk/pdfs/publications/nnr/Loch_Leven_visit.pdf.
56 This area is a bit to the north east of Loch Leven. Perhaps the Flemings had time to walk the hills.
57 Tributary of the Tay River near Dunkeld -- River Braan - Rumbling Bridge to The Hermitage
https://www.ukriversguidebook.co.uk/rivers/scotland/central-highlands/river-braan-rumbling-bridge-to-thehermitage.
52
53

18

Cottage or observatory looking over the falls. The woods here is more like the woods in Canada than
anything I have seen. After resting for some time we retraced our steps making a walk of 5 ½ miles (? Or
3 ½)
After supper Roy and Andrew climbed Craigiebarns [or Craigie Barns]58 and viewed (?) the county. Got
us some heather and ??tend.

Monday July 20
We are off again to Blair Athol the town and Pass Killiecrankie.
On our way to Blair Athol we saw the Pass of Killiecrankie and the battle ground, indeed the very spot
was marked out where Bonnie Dundee fell. A stone xxx similar (?) to the Druid (?) stones – on we went
past the new station called Killiecrankie, now at Blair Athol where we alighted and walked fully 3 miles t
the burying ground and old abbey where Bonny Dundee is buried. Also Dowager Duchess Athol is
buried here. We saw her … on the way from the train up we crossed the Tilt River twice first by the old
“brig oTilt and by the new Birg O Tilt. At the old bridge there is a very beautiful lot of scenery. It banks of
solid rock and the water deep and dark – as we ??tended we took the path by the river which was
beautiful and wooded. Splendid large timbers like the trees in Canada are.
There is a pretty light coloured rock along the banks and in the bottom of the river as well which makes
the water look very clear and cool. We also saw a peak of the Grampian hills from the place.
Grantly Castle [Grantully Castle]59
After leaving Blair Athol we stopped off and took train and drive to Grantully Castle which was
beautiful. Lady Stuart lives here. Roy took a snap shot of this castle. It has lately been added to, a part
with nice tower much larger than the old part – then on to the Church which Lady Stuart built. Now we
turn about . When we had driven a little we could see several very high hills and surrounded with hills.
Dowally
Mrs W Graham
– Elizabeth McLean wishes to remembered to Jessie Agnew – they were school mates.

Hill nearby – very scenic view of Dunkeld and Birnam and Tay valley – much painted – popular for climbing.
Grantully Castle is situated 0.5 miles (0.8km) from the southern bank of the River Tay 2 miles (3km) to
the west of its final bend before the confluence with the River Tummel at Ballinluig, some 7 miles
(11.5km) to the east.
58
59

http://portal.historicenvironment.scot/designation/GDL00202

19

Thursday 23
Bade good by to Dunkeld and came to Stirling. We are now on the high rock near the Castle. We can see
from this spot Ben Lomand, Ben Lidi, Ben Venue, The Wallace Monument.
Went up to the Cliff for observation called the Ladies rock.60 On the right was the Stirling Castle, on front
of it, Royal Games Ground (?) and the field of Bannockburn in the distance and Gillis [Gillies] Hills. A flag
pole stands in the middle of the field. Saw it from there and beside it – the Borestone on which the
Robert Bruce Flag stood on the day of Battle.
Then we went through the cemetery up to Stirling Castle, crossed the draw bridge and under the
portcullis – a guard showed us all over the castle. We first entered the Dungeon where Roduck Due (?)61
was confined and other prsners [prisoners] – then went to the room where Mary Queen of Scots used to
live and where her son James the first of England was born. Then to the room where Douglass was
murdered. Saw the window where he was thrown out to the ground. We went to where Mary Queen of
Scots used to sit and watch the games. The Wallace Monument about a mile to the north. Cromwell was
the only man who ever took this castle. He set the cannon in the tower of the Church.

Edinburgh Friday
This is Princess [Princes] Street Sunday (?).. and the memorial to Sir Walter Scott said to be the finest in
the world. Livingston’s monument bible in hand stands on the East Corner which is fine.
Now we enter the location south (?) xxwe climbed on stairs but I will not go further. 1400 went up into
this monument on Monday. 1600 is the largest number that ever entered n one day as more could not
be accommodated. It was completed 1844 – Mr George M Kemp62 Esq architect to his memory.
“Hope still cheers us while we mourn ;
Fame strews laurels o’er his urn;
See you structure cleave the sky;
Dream not genius e’er can die.”
In the centre of the museum where I am now standing is the statue of Sir Walter Scott with his dog and
book and pencil in hand.
This grand memorial of Scott stands in the East end of the Princes’ Street.. and is the finest in the world.
In the centre of the Gardens is the statue of the Lord Provost of Edinburgh and at the other end of John
Wilson.

http://www.oldtowncemetery.co.uk/history/ladies.html.
can’t verify.
62 George Meikle Kemp – Scott Monument - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/George_Meikle_Kemp.
60
61

20

Now we stand on the Heart of Midlothian Jennie Deans prison. Now we are at St Giles Church
[Cathedral] where the lady threw63 the stool at the Minister’s head.
Now we stand on Parliament Square where an equestrian monument of Charles 2nd.
Now are standing] on the spot where all that remains of John Knox is ???k – date 1572. This place which
used to be the burying ground of St Giles Church, near Parliament Square. We now enter the Church,
many tablets to the memory of many people also a case as the old books of order and service(?)
sanctioned (?) by the General Assembly. One is dated 1562. The Sacred Prayer Book of King Edward 6th
1552 and many others.
Among the tablets is one to the 92 Sutherlands who died at the Indian Mutiny. On one side of the
Church hangs many old flags that have been used in the old time battle and maybe captured.
The first memorial and tomb here is to the Duke of Argyle who was beheaded outside of the Church.
The Church was started to be built in 854.
The great bell that was used to summon people hither (?) for defence of the city is still here.
There are 35 bells (chimes) on St Giles Church.
The Earl of Murray is lord here. He was regent when Mary Queen of Scots was a child.
Now welcome to the spot Janet Geddes [Jenny Geddes] 64 sat and fired the stool in 1637 on 23 July.
Struck (?) the first / final (?) blow in last great trouble freedom of Conscience which after the conflict of
half a century ended in the establishment of civil and religious liberty.
In another section of the Church is the Tomb of Montrose – it is most elegant.
The royal eats are also in this Church which we viewed.
Now the Castle covers 11 ½ acres. There are 7 gates to the
1378 dates from
Saw the window the last sleep of Argyle 65
St Margarets Chapel66 – the oldest church in Scotland 1093
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

63

Jenny Geddes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenny_Geddes.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenny_Geddes.
Painting of the 9th Earl of Argyle - napping before his execution.
66 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Margaret%27s_Chapel,_Edinburgh.
64
65

21

1560 Mary Queen of scots mother died in the room
1434 date the building of part of the castle we enetered where the crown and jewels of Scotland Robert
the Bruce first wore – this is the Crown his (?) sword and scepter. The sword is two handled.
There (?) are two scepters and a belt. (>)
The Crown67 sits on a beautiful silk and gold cushion and then a cushion of ermine.
Now we are in the room where James 1 of England - he was 6th of Scotland, son of Mary Queen of Scots.
In this room are several pictures of Mary – one of them is her escape from Loch Leven Castle. Room is
say 25 by 30. On looking out we see the great mountain Arthur’s Craig 68 [Seat] with the Salisbury Crags
in front.
Next we enter the armory – all the old guns, coats of mail, and other memories (?) of War are here. Old
flags too. Also the Gun Carriage that brought Queen Victoria 69 from the Isle of Wight to be buried.
Now we see the Dogs Cemetery, little slabs xxx each on – They are those that followed the 72 Highland
(?) for ten years during peace and wars – “let sleeping dogs lie”
Here we have a magnificent view of the City of Edinburgh and Firth of Forth. People are here of every
size and age and clime(?) This is King’s Bastion.
We now visited the Gras Market [Grassmarket]70 where they used to hang people as told in Walter
Scott’s “Heart of Midlothian”
One of the ugliest places in Edinburgh
Visited Hollyrood [Holyrood] Palace, the royal residence in Edinburgh. It was built for Mary Queen of
Scots. Her mother was Mary of Guise, a French lady. The Crown Surmonly (?) the front of the Castle.
The fountain in front has many statuettes.
We put up at Miss Spences, Royal Circus, Edinburgh. It was the loveliest place we have been at in all our
travles both here and on the continent.
Melrose Abbey – no less a place. In the East End is laid to rest the heart of Bruce, also the remains of
Alex 2nd of Scotland, also good Sir James Douglas.

Honours of Scotland - http://www.royal-mile.com/castle/castle-crownjewels.html.
One of a group of hills near Edinburg – volcano site - provides tremendous view https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arthur%27s_Seat.
69 Queen Victoria died in Feb 1901. Was a military procession https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Funeral_of_Queen_Victoria.
67
68

70

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grassmarket.

22

South side west end is the Chapel. In 1618 part of it was again fitted up worship – for Presbyterian, has a
6 o????????? f????
David the 1st and Queen Matilda of Scotland bush (?) are here.
Next is a old fashioned kneeling stone with 4 horse shoes engraved upon it. A carving on two of central
pillars represent the Crown of Thorns.
In the “Lay of the Lost Ministrel” l is the figure of the old wizard Michael Scott.71
Next is the H??? of Mary B???, son Rolf Ivens – next on a heap of stones is where Walter Scott used to
sit – on one side lies Lord Somerville. Roy took snapshot of Heart of Bruce memorial and also Michael
Scott, a character in Lay of Lost Minstrel.
Abbey was founded in 1136 by David 1st of Scotland when Edward second was on his way south, he
destroyed the abby. Especially Melrose – greatest length 238 feet, greatest width 130 feet.
Stands east and west – exactly like all great cathedrals – a marvel of architectural clarity and expense.
We are now on way xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

[Abbotsford]
Walter Scott’s home [Abbotsford]72 built by himself just as he left it – owned by his granddaughter. This
is the wood of the Spanish Armada.
20,000 volumes of Library his chair (?), his sloffs (?).73
Here is the famous bust of Sir Walter Scott.
The Tweed runs nearby.
Sir Walter and his lady before they were married.
The curly kale leaf graces the walk.
The Honourable Mrs Maxwell Scott,74 Scott’s granddaughter and owner of the home.

71
72

http://www.rampantscotland.com/famous/blfamwizard.htm.
https://www.scottsabbotsford.com/

Probably figures differ on number of books – this site says 7,000 http://www.thetwobees.co.uk/abbotsford-house/
Another 9,000
73 Sloffs – a Scottish slang word, but given this definition, unlikely what Jennie meant.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Sloff
74 http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/1461446/Dame-Jean-Maxwell-Scott.html

23

Sir Henry Rayburn’s [Raeburn] painting of Sir W Scott and his dog. 75
His own f????? in the drawing room76 and the paper is still on the wall as he left it.
Now the armour Bonnie Prince Charlie 77 – sword and gold case.
Sir Walter ??? more that was presented to him.
His last suit of clothes78 is here, pants, shepherds plaid, coat black. Vest of a grey and black silk corduroy.
– Hat long gray plug – boots low – and squared toed.
On leaving his house we went out into the garden which was laden with berries and gooseberries.
Flowers of every variety and a small green house with flowers. Roy took a snapshot. Then we said good
by the beautiful scene.
The house was all designed by Walter Scott himself.
We are now on our way [to] Dryburg Abby [abbey].79 Sir W Scott is buried here, his wife and son. Scott
died 1832.
A yew tree here was planted in 850 about 800 years old. Sat under and soon slept.
Now we come to the Leader River and bridge. Was a wonderful (?) bridge.
Now we come to the great bridge with 17 piers.80 They were all of this old(?) stone that looks so like
brick crosses. The Tweed near where it unites with the Leader [Leader water].81
The Scotts are in vault’s with splendid heavy stone grant [granite ?] memorials.

Sunday 26th July

Obit of Dame Jean-Maxwell Scott – 193-d 2004 – great3 granddaughter . Jennie must have been referring to Dame
Jean’s grandmother.
75 Probably this one -- http://www.walterscott.lib.ed.ac.uk/portraits/paintings/raeburn1808.html
Picture of drawing room with Chinese wall paper -- https://www.scottsabbotsford.com/visit/the-house/thechinese-drawing-room/188
76

Scott collected historic relics such as a lock of Bonnie Prince Charlie. Sword not mention but Rob Roy’s
broadsword is. In DK travel book – Google Books - http://tinyurl.com/yads678v
78 Picture here -- http://world4.eu/abbotsford-residence-of-the-english-writer-sir-walter-scott/
79 http://www.scotiana.com/dryburgh-abbey-sir-walter-scott%E2%80%99s-final-resting-place/
77

Also http://portal.historicenvironment.scot/designation/GDL00145
Or Leaderfoot Viaduct – near Melrose – opened in 1863 as railway bridge. – 19 spans.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leaderfoot_Viaduct
80

81

small tributary of the Tweed in Lauderdale. Joins the Tweed at Leaderfoot. East of Melrose.

24

St George’s United Free Church 82 – Dr White [Alexander Whyte] pastor, Dr Black [Dr Hugh Black of Union
Theological Seminary] preacher. The first Preacher and most fashionable Presbyterian Church in the City
[Edinburgh]
Text – “Ye are my epistles. Known and read of all men” [2 Corinthians 3:2] – a most earnest appeal for
true Discipleship and true character building and the being true Christians.
Hymn No 198 was sung with great pathos (?) then the benediction. We sat a while as most of the
people passed out. They were a beautifully dressed audience. You could not think there was one poor
person in the place.
26 July – Sunday afternoon – we called on Miss Greenie, but Edith was gone to the continent. Had been
for six weeks. She was very much pleased that we called on her – said Mr Jos Green. Has not been
writing to them. We must tell Mr Green to write. – She has a weak chaist(?) – Miss Green was a kind of
broke down in health. That is why she went to the continent.
Later in the evening we went to Mrs Fleming(?) 26 Prince Regent St, Leith. We found her a very nice
young woman.

Monday
2:10 left Edinburgh on the fast express, East Coast which skirts the North Sea Coast. Now we see Bass
Rock83 which is pretty as it stands alone – now a lighthouse stands high, now we come to Berwick.
Farewell to the land of the Heather. I shall see you no more – on earth. It is with extreme sorrow I look
on you for the last time. Farewell bonnie Scotland.
We are over the border – The Tweed enters the North Sea here we cross it – the bridge has 25 arches.
The tide comes in here. It is beautiful along the Beach, lots of little rowboats and larger craft. Soon a
long island appears. It is Holy Island. 84 Next Farne Islands. They look beautiful from our train.
Now we come to the pretty little town of Warkworth. It has a pretty little summerery port on the shore.
The lady house that we boarded at in Edinburgh was Mrs Spence, 19 Royal Circuit, Edinburgh
It is beautifully conducted [sic] and has every modern convenience and comfort – beautiful break dining
room and parlour and good table.
We called on Miss Greene, No 1 Sydenham Place near the meadows which is a park of 400 or 500
hundred (?) in almost the centre of the city. There was a band concert on when we were there. Then
called on Mrs Fleming, a daughter of Mrs Smith of Dunkirk. Her number is 26 Prince Regent Street, Leith.

Mentioned in The Christian Century – Google Books - http://tinyurl.com/yawvfuzv
Island in Firth of Forth - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_Rock
84 Full name - The Holy Island of Lindisfarne. – a tidal island
https://www.lindisfarne.org.uk/general/welcome.htm
82
83

25

Newcastle on the Tyne is now coming up. It is a great ship building centre.
Now we come to Durham and saw the Cathedral from the car window. No grander Norman building
than this cathedral exists in Europe – overlooking the [River] Wear.
Now we reach Darlington and nothing of note here. Only that it is raining. Out on the banks of the Tyne
near the busy city of Newcastle is the village of Wylam that the great Stephenson85 was born and the
first piece of railroad built. The old engine that ran 80 years finds an appropriate resting place on a
pedestal in Darlington.
Now we reach York. This has a beautiful cathedral of Norman structure which we saw from the train
window. There is also a castle. Peterboro [Peterborough] was another of the stopping places.
Reached London at 11 pm and took Hanson to Mrs Abrahams 47 Torrington Square where we now are.
It has rained a London rain all day – had to order in a hack all day in order to do anything fast.
The White Tower built by William the Conqueror in about 1066. It is in fine condition. Saw the staircase
under which the two murdered princes was found and many other old scenes – and an immensity of old
armour of every kind of coats of mail, shields, bow and arrows, old guns of every age and time, spears
and battle axes and bayonets, a beautiful old brass gun captured from the French and numberless
munisions [munitions] of war.
Outside in the court yard was the place of execution of Lady Jane Gray, Anne Bowline, Catherine
Howard. It was fenced in with a little iron railing.
Next went to St Paul’s Cathedral. Lord Nelson and Duke of Wellington are buried here. Their monuments
are there. Also General Gordon’s Tomb – which was strewed [strewn] with fresh roses.
This is said to be the largest (?) cathedral this side of St Peter’s Church at Rome – it was truly grand.
Next The Art Gallery which has the master pieces of so many of the great Painters divided into schools.
French, Spanish, British, Italian Schools. So many biblical scenes
A very life like painting of Gladstone was there.
Next - The Lord Mayors Court at “Guild Hall”. The Court was in session, went in and listened a little
while, then onto Westminister Abby. This is an immense place with tombs of Kings and great men of all
ages. You would think all the old kings that ever lived are stowed away here. Then there is a poet’s
corner DiKinson [William Dickinson – architect of the abbey] and Gladstone tombs are here.
We then drove to the Parliament buildings but there was no admittance so drove around to see the
outside – also Buckingham and St James Palace, the Bank of England, The Mansion House – returning to
our own boarding house which was <address not given.

85

George Stephenson – railway pioneer.

26

29th July
To Windsor Castle – it was a perfect downpour of rain all morning but we must go. So called a cab to
take us to the station, a distance of about a mile arriving at the Waterloo Station as an incoming train
houlted (?) up. The place was perfectly congested with people – soon we got our tickets which were
about 90 cents each return – as we got out to the country the sun began to show. The crops especially
oats was nearly ready to curl – but very much flattened down with rain. Now we come to Ashford.
There is a beautiful building here which we do not know yet.
Windsor Castle St Georges Chapel – we find Geo Stevenson’s tomb86 here. Next King Leopold 1st king of
the Belgians just a statue [monument]87
Next George the Fifth King of Hanover. Also a great work of art to the memory Princess Charlotte 88 in
polish marble executed by M.C. Wyatt.
The Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria (sarcophagus).
Also a memorial to Napolean whose tomb is here.
King Henry the 8th and Charles the 1st - buried him (?)
The Quire [aka choir] portion of the chapel is exceedingly beautiful.
Prince Consort Memorial Window erected by Queen Victoria is beautiful – about 40 flags in the most
elegant silk and gold hang along each side.
Edward the 4th was the builder of this chapel.
On the left this Edward 4th is inlaid (?) and on the right Henry 6th.
Xxxxx on the wall are coats of arms of the Knights of the Garter.89
In an open court is an immense to Charles the 2nd90 and fountain
The Round Tower is 100 feet a????

86

Can’t confirm. Might be Stephenson.

http://tinyurl.com/yb74b5nq for photo Also
https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/themes/exhibitions/crown-andcamera-the-british-royal-family-and-photography-1842-1910/the-queens-gallerybuckingham-palace/king-leopold-i-of-the-belgians-1790-1865
87

88

https://www.stgeorges-windsor.org/the-monument-to-princess-charlotte/

89

Glass painting in Gothic window by Francis Eginton https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Francis_Eginton

90

Might have been statue of Charles on horseback.

27

We walked an through all park except the Royal residence but we could see through their gateway and
fence to the gardens and front. Then we went down the long walk and driveway leading to Frogmore.91
Then turned off to our left to the gate that led to the mausoleum. The gate keeper said there was no
admittance but said to go back tot he main driveway and walk further on till we would have a better
view of the main building which we did. However we consoled ourselves knowing that we walked the
road on which her remains wee carried from Windsor Castle to the burial at Frogmore – and we pulled a
few leaves of one of the great elm trees that line both sides of the driveway along through the great
Windsor Park.

British Museum
First great hall of Greek and Mosaic. Part of the Tempel [temple] of Dianna [Temple of Artemis] of
Ephesus.
William Shakespeare died 1626.
Net the Granville Library – writing of Lady Jane Gray 1533
Signature of Queen Victoria in 1838 to a letter and due to Right Rev Father to allind (?) her coronation.92
Signature of Mary Queen of Scots, written in French Marie.
Photograph of the Magna Carta 1215
Charlotte Bronte died 1855 – her manuscript –
The Bible in Cranmer’s version of Wycliff93
The original writing music of Mendelsohn.
The earliest specimens of the printing press.
Caxton His earliest English press a game of chess. Also the first book printed in England.
The firt map of America
Ancient gods of all sizes and shapes.
One fine large brass god of China “Kwan Yen” [goddess of mercy] . She has 8 hands – also figure of
Buddha.
Great Chinese Bell
Frogmore House – in Windsor Park - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frogmore_House
Can’t clarify but Lord Melbourne was her chief advisor.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coronation_of_Queen_Victoria
91
92

Puzzling. Wycliffe wrote English version in 1380. Cranmer produced the Big Bible in 1539. No mention that he
used Wycliffe’s as the base. http://www.greatsite.com/timeline-english-bible-history/
93

28

Wooden cash [cart] wheel from Egypt
Egyptian coffins and mummies in them. Mummied cats and dogs. Mummied crocodile. 3 mummies
wrapped in linen and one of them in casket of wood, face guilded with brass or gold. Also hand of a high
rank lady with ring still on.
There are hundreds of Egyptian mummies in caskets and many without just with the wrappings with
arms inside the wrapping and many caskets of all styles used by the Egyptians and all sorts of vessels
many hand painted.

<No diary account for time on continent – Switzerland and Italy - and departure
for Montreal>

Aug 28 1903
Arrived at Montreal 7 o’clock Friday evening. Went direct to Albron Hotel and rested for the night. In
the morning we went to St James R.C. Cathedral modelled after St Peters of Rome. It stands on the
corner of Dominion Square. There is a beautiful park. The cathedral although modeled after St Peters is
utterly (?) insignificant that I hardly cared to take much stock of it for fear it would take away any of the
recollections of the great St Peters but its dome and inscription is just the same as St Peters only nothing
like the size or highth [height].
Next we went out on the Square where a handsome monument stands to the honor of Sir John A
Mcdonald. A statue of himself stand in the centre which resembles him exceedingly. All the industries
which he so much encouraged and fostered is represented on the different sides – for instance for the
lumber industry the saws - agricultural the pitchfork rake – and so on. It is a wonderful piece of
workmanship standing - dois (?) in the center of beds of flowers.
Next we went to Mount Royal by the cable car. It ran up almost straight to nearly the top of the hill –
where is a nice large station house and stores of curios and views and post cards. We still walked on up
higher and higher and then sat down to view the town. Next we visited the Woman’s College in
connection with McGill. The money to build it was given by Lord Strathcona (Donald Smith). A statue of
Quneeen Victoria is in front.
Next we went to McGill University. The grounds are beautiful and large but the buildings did not strike
me as being so large and fine by any means as the University grounds of Toronto.
There is also the great Hospital presented by Lord Strathcona to the City.
From the mountain side we could see the Island owned by the Grey Nuns. They have immense schools
here also . They own an immense orphanage. They take in babies of illegitimate birth ----- ???? and
Christian for them teaching them own religion then send them on to the new country where homes are
provided for them and in this way add to the number of Roman Catholics.

29

There is over forty millions of dollars worth of church and school property of the R.Catholics exempt
from taxation in this city.
We next went out by electric car to Lachine – took a boat and went down the Lachine Rapids and on
under the great Victoria Bridge which is two miles long, was opened in 1860 by the Prince of Wales now
King Edward. He driving a gold coach which is state. Then his son ???????????? last year when open.
Sunday morning went to Church to St Georges Church (Anglican) then took car to West Mount and to
the English and Scottish portion of the city – saw parks and flower gardens – then to a very handsome
little cathedral. It had the fourteen stations of the cross in beautiful paintings and many other beautiful
decorations.
On this trip we saw Laval University which is not so very great but is the French rival of McGill University.
After dinner we went to Notre Dame Cathedral. The chapel at the back is exquisite – the cist (?) of the
church is rich as well. Some were there praying. The organist was playing some fine music on the fine
organ – as I stood near by the altar three gentlemen, one of them very young, came in, crossed
themselves , bowed, then kissed Saint Peter for a small statue of him setting down not far from the altar
– as often is in cathedrals, Saint Peter was holding the two keys.

[end of journal ]

Expenses
Steamer Tunisian
Expenses of European Trip
My extra expense
Spent myself in s???

$307.90
20
8
$335.90

1 Glass PD
Montreal Expense
August 29th

5.90
8.96
350.66

Roy owes me on his European trip $ 67.00
Correct R.F. Fleming 94

94

Perhaps Roy signed but doesn’t look like his writing.

30

August 31st Expense in Montreal and some cash I go 10.50 – R.F.95
April 6th Recd balance in full by 7.00.96 The seventy was paid to me at Christmas – Jessie Fleming

95
96

Initials R.F.
Don’t know what this is – but does look like $7.

31